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What improvements will I see with high performance parts on my G23LH engine?
This engine comes on the Sport, Liquimatic, Bigfoot, and X-ped. The following table should help you estimate what improvements in speed and acceleration you will achieve with various high performance parts, as well as noise level impact on your Go-ped. For info on how to find the speed of your ped, check lower on this page.
| Item |
Top Speed |
Acceleration |
Noise level |
|
Big-bore kit (requires HP carb Kit) |
+3-4 mph |
faster |
slightly louder |
|
Rockit Key |
approx +1 mph |
slightly faster |
same |
| .675 Spindle |
+1-2 mph |
slightly slower |
same |
| .750 Spindle |
+2-3 mph |
slower |
same |
| .800 spindle |
+3-4 mph |
much slower |
same |
| .900 spindle |
+5-6 mph |
MUCH slower |
same |
| Ported Cylinder |
+2-3 mph |
faster |
same |
| HP Air filter alone |
+ less than 1 mph |
same |
louder |
| HP Carb Kit alone |
+1-2 mph |
slightly faster |
slightly louder |
| HP Carb + Air filter |
+2-3 mph |
faster |
louder |
| Tuned Pipe exhaust kit |
+2-3 mph |
slightly faster |
louder |
| Exhaust + Carb + Air Filter |
+3-5 mph |
much faster |
much louder |
Complete HP Kit
(spindle. air filter, carb, exhaust) |
+5-9 mph |
faster |
much louder |
|
|
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How do I change the drive spindle on my Go-ped?
To install a new spindle,
1) remove the rear wheel and move the gas tank out of your way
2) remove the bolt in the center of the old spindle
3) spray a little WD-40 or other loosening agent where the bolt used to be.
4) set the Go-ped on its left side to let the oil soak down in for about 10 minutes.
5) Give the old spindle a few light taps with a hammer as you pull on it. Pull hard, and it will come off! If you are really having a hard time getting it off, try using the narrow end of a hammer as a 'crowbar'. Place it under the end of the spindle, and tap on the hammer head to pop the spindle off.
6) Put the new spindle on, and tap it into place.
7) put the spindle bolt back in and tighten it very firmly. You may want to grip the new spindle with a pair of vice-grip pliers to allow you to tighten the allen bolt all the way.
All done! Put your gas tank back in place and replace the rear wheel, and you are good to go!
You can also purchase a spindle removal tool here which makes the process much easier.
How much power does my engine have?
Check out some dyno results from the Zenoah factory for the engines below:
How do I change the front sprocket on my GSR40?
To install a new sprocket:
Remove the rear wheel, quick release chain tensioner, and the chain. Once you have clear access to the sprocket, spin the sprocket and you will see gaps in the clutch behind the aluminum clutch surface. Take a thin allen wrench, nail, or other long object and slide it onto the hole in the clutch to stop the clutch from spinning. Now, grab the old sprocket with a pair of pliers and unscrew the sprocket counterclockwise (it is a regular right-hand thread, so 'righty-tighty, lefty-loosey'). After you have removed the old sprocket, twist the new sprocket in firmly. You don't have to over-tighten the new sprocket - the engine will continually tighten it against the chain. Remove the allen wrench or nail, re-thread the chain, and re-install the chain guide and rear wheel.
You can also purchase a GSR sprocket tool here which makes this process easier.
How do I install the HP Carburetor (Walbro WA-167) Kit?
Installation instructions for the HP Carburetor Kit that DDM sells can be downloaded here: HP Carb Installation Instructions
How do I install the Rockit Key?
Quick and easy instructions to install this part:
Take off your fan cover by removing the screws holding it on. Now, take off the nut that holds the flywheel on. You will need a 12mm socket for this. Twist a M6 size metric bolt into one of the threaded holes in the flywheel until the bolt is all the way down against the crankcase. Now, tighten the bolt slowly to lift the flywheel off. You can tap the flywheel with a rubber mallet to help it pop off. Take the bolt out of the flywheel, and turn the crankshaft until your stock flywheel key is located at the top. Remove this stock key with a screwdriver or other fine instrument. Insert your rockit key into the space in the crankshaft. Be sure the offset is facing the rear of your Go-ped. It is important that the key sits all the way down in its slot. If you are having a hard time getting it to fit, try some light sanding of the key with abrasive cloth. Next, replace your flywheel. Be sure that the rockit key stays in place as you replace the flywheel, and that the key lines up with the keyway in the flywheel. Press the flywheel on firmly. Replace the retaining nut and tighten it firmly. Re-install your fan cover, and enjoy the increased power and better fuel burn that results from properly advancing the timing! You may want to check your flywheel nut after a few minutes of use to ensure it is tight.
How should I adjust the jets on the HP Carburetor (Walbro WA-167)?
Due to the increased power and hence increased vibration that results from installing the larger carburetor, you will most likely need to adjust the jets much more often than the jet for the stock carb. If you find your top-end RPM's have fallen off a bit, or if you experience lagging or surging, it is probably time to re-adjust the carb jets. To ensure max performance and engine life, follow this procedure:
1) Locate the low and high RPM jets on the side of the carb - they are usually marked with a L and a H. Turn both jets completely CLOCKWISE ( to the fully closed position).
2) Rotate the Low jet counter-clockwise to 1 and 1/2 turns open.
3) Rotate the High jet counter-clockwise to approx 1 turn open.
Note for the G230RC / HE23HP carburetor (Walbro WT-603, or WT-668): set the low jet and high jet at 1 1/4 turns out.
4) Now, start the engine. You may need to turn the Low jet slightly one way or the other for the engine to start.
5) Adjust the Low jet as desired until the idle is where you like it. Turning clockwise ("CLOSING" THE JET) will produce a higher idle, and counterclockwise ("OPENING" THE JET) will produce a lower idle (and eventually flood and the engine will kill, if you turn it too far).
6) Lift the rear tire off the ground and pull the throttle lever to full blast. Adjust the High jet until you get maximum RPMs. Note: this will probably be REALLY LOUD. Listen for the highest-pitched whine to tell you where max RPMs are hit. AFTER YOU FIND THE MAX RPM SETTING, TURN THE HIGH JET COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ("OPEN" THE JET) APPROX 1/16TH OF A TURN TO ENSURE YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT GAS/OIL MIX TO COOL THE ENGINE PROPERLY.
Note: The above are just general guidelines. You may need to adjust both the H and L screws once you begin riding, depending on rider weight, altitude, humidity, etc. The trick is to find settings that work well for you, and stick with them.
Here is some helpful information regarding common carburetor tuning problems:
If your engine stutters at full throttle and cannot reach full RPMs:
The high jet is too far open. Close the jet by turning it clockwise slightly, and then ride-test. If no improvement, repeat until desired results are achieved. Once you have found a workable setting, open the jet approx 1/16 of a turn to ensure sufficient fuel/air mix.
If your engine bogs out from low speed:
The high jet is too far closed. Open the jet by turning it counterclockwise until you are at least 1 1/2 turns open, and then gradually close the jet until performance is as desired. Poor engine compression, blocked exhausts, and very heavy engine loading can all also cause bogging.
If your engine idles very fast and kills if you attempt to slow the idle:
You may have an air leak in your intake. An easy way to check for leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.
If your engine idles but then slowly kills:
Your low jet is too far open. Close the low jet by turning it clockwise until a stable idle is achieved.
What Spark plugs will work in my G230RC / G260RC / HE23HP / HE26HP / SK27RC engine? What electrode gap is correct?
The following plugs work well:
Champion R27C
NGK CR8HVX
NGK CR8HSA
NGK CR7HVX
NGK CR7HSA
NGK CMR8A
NGK CMR7A
This plug works the BEST: NGK CR8HIX Iridium Plug
A gap of .65mm (.029 inches) is recommended.
Where can I get the G230RC engine owners manual?
Download the owners manual in .PDF format here.
How should I install my new G230RC engine?
Some basic instructions in Word format can be found here: G230RC Installation Instructions
How should I break-in my G230RC / G260RC / HE23HP / HE26HP / SK27RC engine?
These engines are tuned for high performance and need to be well taken care of. Breaking-in an engine is a process of alternately heating and cooling the engine to allow all parts to properly seat themselves, and allowing 2-stroke oil from the incoming fuel to coat the interior of the engine. DDM recommends the following break-in procedure:
Use 95 octane or higher fuel, mixed 25:1 with a quality non-synthetic 2-stroke oil. (You can use synthetic oil for break-in also. Just run 2-3 tanks instead of 1-2. ) Run 1 to 2 tanks of gas through the engine, running the engine at varying speeds for periods of 5 to 15 minutes at a time. During this break-in time, NEVER go full throttle. Always let the engine idle for 30 seconds before turning it off.
After the break-in period, switch to a high-quality synthetic 2-stroke oil, mixed at 25:1. Be sure to let the engine idle for 30 seconds to cool before stopping. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule included in your engine owners manual.
Help! My G230RC / G260RC / HE23HP / HE26HP / SK27RC engine won't start! What's wrong?
This engine is tuned for high performance and needs to be well taken care of. If your engine won't start, check the following things:
1) Are you using high octane gasoline? 95 octane or higher is needed. Using octane booster is not recommended.
2) Are you using high-quality 2-stroke oil mixed at 25:1? This is 5 ounces of oil per gallon. DO NOT USE any oil labeled as 'TCW-3', 'MARINE' or 'OUTBOARD' oil. These are designed for low-revving, water-cooled oil-injected motors (such as personal watercraft), and your engine will likely not run if you use them. You can find an excellent 2-stroke oil here.
3) Are you using the choke properly? On the side of the carburetor is the choke lever. Horizontal is open, vertical is closed. Lever should be closed when first starting. As soon as the engine sputters at all, move the choke to open and leave it there.
4) Is your spark plug clean and working? Remove the plug from the engine and inspect the tip. Is it clogged with gunk or debris? Clean if necessary. After the plug is removed, check if the plug is working by: attaching the wire to the top of the plug, and place the tip of the plug very close to the metal of the cylinder. Pull the pull start a few times. A spark should jump from the plug to the cylinder. If no spark, replace the plug and check again. If still no spark - you likely have a problem with the ignition coil, and will need professional service.
5) Is your carburetor properly tuned? Rotate the 'H' and 'L' screws on the side of the carb fully clockwise ('closed'). Then, turn the L screw counterclockwise ('open') 1 and 1/4 turns. Turn the H screw open 1 and 3/8 turns. You may need to adjust these screws slightly in either direction to find correct tuning for your carb.
6) Is your engine flooded? If you have pushed the primer bulb a lot of times, or pulled the pull start a lot of times, the engine may be flooded. Remove the spark plug, and allow all the fuel in the cylinder to evaporate. You can speed up this process by blowing on it with a hair dryer.
7) Are you getting good compression? If you have used your engine for an extended period of time, the piston ring may need replacement. See instructions below.
8) Do you have a gasket leak? Check your carb gasket, intake gasket, cylinder gasket, and crankcase gasket. Can you hear air wooshing out of the cylinder gasket or crankcase gasket when you pull the starter? Is air leaking in the manifold gasket behind the carb? A gasket leak results in a loss of compression and/or improperly mixed fuel and air. An easy way to check for intake leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an intake air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.
If your engine still won't start, you will likely need professional service on your engine.
How do I change the G230RC / G260RC / HE23HP / HE26HP / SK27RC piston ring?
If your engine is losing compression, the ring may need replacing. Here's how:
Remove your air filter, carburetor and muffler. Remove the fan cover and the engine cover. Remove the ignition coil, and then remove the two cylinder bolts. Keep them safe. Remove the cylinder by pulling firmly upwards. Do not rotate, twist, or bend the cylinder, or slide it up and down. Remove the old ring by carefully breaking it off, or bending it and pulling it off the top of the piston. Try to avoid touching the piston or inside cylinder with your bare hands - your body oils or other foreign matter on your hands may harm the engine... you may want to consider wearing clean latex gloves. Now, carefully install the new ring by bending it over the top of the piston. You can put the ring in the oven at 200° for a few minutes to warm it up and make it less likely to crack during installation. Place a drop or two of 2-stroke oil on the edge of the ring. You can also put in a new base gasket now if your current gasket needs replacing. Slide the cylinder back on smoothly (no twisting or up and down) and replace the cylinder bolts. Re-install the ignition coil, engine cover and fan cover, muffler, carb, and filter. Follow the break-in instructions above to allow the new ring to seat itself well.
What chain lube should I use on my GSR25 / GSR40 chain?
Tropix highly recommends top-quality White Lightning chain lubricant. Get it here.
How does a tuned pipe exhaust work? Why will it increase the performance of my engine?
A "tuned pipe" is the common name for a Helmholtz resonator. An example you are probably more familiar with is an organ pipe, which resonates or is "tuned" to a particular frequency. The engine on your Go-ped also makes a sound wave with a particular frequency. As the RPM's of your engine get higher, the pulses of exhaust gas coming out of your engine bounce back and forth inside the pipe and create a "standing wave". Areas of high and low pressure are created. The exhaust is sucked quickly out of the low pressure areas. Tuned pipes create a low pressure area directly behind the cylinder, and exhaust is sucked quickly out of the cylinder! This makes more room for fresh air and fuel, and thus: more power for your ped. This is why tuned pipes are an excellent investment, despite the cost. Other systems, such as aftermarket mufflers with two exhaust tubes, simply reduce the back pressure from the muffler. They cannot create a standing wave which leads to low pressure at the exhaust port.
How can I tell how fast my Goped is?
The only accurate way to measure your Go-ped speed is: use a speed trap. It is the only foolproof, accurate method of judging speed. All official speed records are measured this way. Here's how a simple speed trap works:
We want to find out how many feet per second your ped is traveling. This is easy to do.
Measure off a known distance on a street (at least 200 feet). 300 or more feet is better and will be more accurate. Mark a start line and a finish line.
Now, get a long running start from further down the street, so you are going FULL SPEED on your ped when you cross the start line.
With a stopwatch, have someone time how long it takes you to travel from the start line to the finish. This is best accomplished as follows:
Have the person with the stopwatch stand at the start line, and start the timer when you cross the line. Have another person with a flag or something stand at the finish line. When the scooter crosses the finish line, quickly lower the flag. The person with the stopwatch should stop the timer when the flag is lowered.
Let's say it took you 5.4 seconds.
This means that you were going (200 feet / 5.4 seconds) = 37 feet per second.
But how many MPH is that?
There are 60 seconds in a minute and 60 minutes in an hour, so there are (60 * 60) = 3600 seconds in an hour.
This means you were going (37 feet/sec * 3600 sec/hour) = 133,200 feet per hour.
Almost there...
There are 5,280 feet in a mile, so you were going (133,200 / 5280) = 25.2 MPH. Not bad!
The general formula for finding MPH from Feet Per Second is: FPS * .682 = MPH.
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